Have you ever looked at the menu page on a facial studio’s website? It looks like a dictionary for aliens. From a neutral third-party perspective, you have to admit that it’s objectively insane to spend $300 on something called “cryotherapy exosomes.” But it gets even crazier when you learn what that actually entails.

Obviously I’m someone who’s deeply fascinated by the wild world of skincare (I’ve already written extensively about how I have a tendency to harass my facialists), but even though I go down Reddit rabbit holes and (lovingly) interrogate licensed professionals more frequently than the average young adult woman, I’m still confused.

You know what? It actually feels really good to admit that. Here I am, revealing that I wasn’t — and still am not — 100% certain on the difference between dermaplaning and microdermabrasion. Phew. And if that makes me a bad beauty-ish journalist, then so be it.

I’d argue it’s quite the opposite. You see, with this insatiable appetite for cosmetic (in both senses of the word) information, I wanted to create something useful. My vision: a document that offered clear, comprehensible definitions for all of these curious facial experiments treatments to be used as reference material in the future. An esthetic encyclopedia, you could say. I see it as less of a ‘newsletter’ and more of a webpage ripe for bookmarking. This, my friends, is what I present to you today.

This required a lot of research on my end, as you’ll soon see, but because I aM nOt a LiCeNsEd PrOfeSsiOnaL, I knew it would be necessary to bring in the big guns for an official sign off on my shenanigans. So please give it up for Miss

Because this is… meaty… I’m going to cut myself off in a second. But first, one thing — I’ve bucketed these treatments into five categories based on their proposed benefits: exfoliation, general glowi-ness, tightening + toning, plumping, and regeneration (FKA anti-aging). But these categories are LOOSE; many of these treatments span classifications (i.e. chemical peels exfoliate your skin, but also encourage general glowiness, and might even tighten you up a bit). Truthfully, there’s not necessarily a good way to categorize all of this, but the brain likes to see information chunked out in such a way, so I succumbed to this basic principle of human psychology. TLDR: the categories aren’t binding; they’re meant to create some semblance of structure. With that, please enjoy this Hotline Skin-approved Ultimate Facial Treatment Glossary.

Exfoliation

These treatments are exfoliating, meaning they remove the dead skin cells from the surface layer of your skin to give you a brighter, smoother texture and unclog pores.

Dermaplane:

An esthetician scrapes the skin’s surface at a 45-degree angle with a sterile surgical scalpel to remove dead skin cells and peach fuzz. It’s meant to manually exfoliate the outermost layer of skin for softer, smoother, brighter skin without any pain or discomfort. Some people say it causes hair to grow back faster and thicker, but this isn’t true.

• Good for: pre-event skin prep for makeup, people who want to remove (baby) facial hair, or improve skin tone and texture

• Not for: super sensitive or actively breaking out skin

Microdermabrasion:

A non-invasive exfoliating treatment that uses a device to physically buff away the top layer of dead skin cells. Unlike dermaplaning, which uses a blade, microdermabrasion uses either crystals that are sprayed onto the skin and vacuumed away or a diamond-coated wand that gently exfoliates the skin while suctioning debris.

The exfoliation is a little deeper than dermaplaning but not as deep as a chemical peel.

• Good for: unclogging pores, evening skin tone, and fading acne scars / hyperpigmentation

• Not for: rosacea-prone or sensitive skin

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HydraFacial:

A multi-step, medical-grade facial treatment that uses a patented device with a vortex-fusion tip to cleanse, exfoliate, extract impurities, and infuse the skin with targeted serums all in one go. Here’s the breakdown:

1. Cleansing + Exfoliation – The esthetician uses a gentle wand to sweep away dead skin cells and debris from the surface.

2. Gentle Chemical Peel – A light mix of glycolic and salicylic acids loosens deeper dirt and oil without the typical sting of a peel.

3. Extractions – The suction tip pulls gunk out of pores painlessly (yes, you can even see it in the waste jar afterward… the classic satisfying x gross combo).

4. Serum Infusion – The clean skin is then flooded with nourishing serums tailored to your needs (hydrating, brightening, calming, etc.).

• Good for: Unclogging pores, creating a visible, hydrated glow

  

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Chemical Peel:

A skin-resurfacing treatment that uses an acidic chemical solution to exfoliate the outer layers of skin. Depending on the type and strength, it can target surface dullness or go deeper to address more serious concerns. There are three main types of peels:

1. Light Peels

• Glycolic, lactic, mandelic, salicylic acids

• Little to no downtime (just a little bit of flush face or tingling)

Good for: evening texture, treating mild acne, unclogging pores

2. Medium Peels

• TCA (trichloroacetic acid), higher % glycolic

• Downtime looks like 3–7 days of flaking, peeling, and sensitivity

Good for: fading acne scars, sun damage and evening pigmentation

3. Deep Peels

• Phenol acid

• Downtime can be 1-2 weeks or more, medical grade care

• Require anesthesia

Good for: reversing severe sun damage, treating precancerous growths

I put chemical peels in the exfoliation category, but, like I hinted at earlier, it can help to brighten and rejuvenate the skin, so don’t hold me to those. Facial treatments are multi-faceted beings that exist beyond the confines of traditional categorization. Sounds like someone else I know. (It’s me, btw.) Jolie tells me there are a ton of different types of chemical peels, sometimes with specific brand names, so it can get a little confusing. That being said, here are some of the names you’re most likely to come across:

VI Peel: A medium-depth chemical peel that combines TCA, phenol, salicylic acid, retinoic acid, and vitamin C to exfoliate the skin and stimulate collagen. It’s known for being effective yet relatively gentle, even on darker skin tones. The skin tends to start peeling 2-3 days afterwards, and the full results settle in in about a week.

• Good for: treating acne, acne scars, hyperpigmentation, and melasma, reducing fine lines, and improving overall texture

Jessner’s Peel: a classic medium-depth peel made from a blend of salicylic acid, lactic acid, and resorcinol in an alcohol base. It works by deeply exfoliating the outer layers of skin, which causes moderate to intense peeling.

• Good for: oily or acne-prone skin, treating sun damage, discoloration, and roughness

BioRePeel: a next-generation chemical peel that offers, according to them, skin rejuvenation without visible peeling or downtime. Therefore, it’s often marketed as a “no-peel peel,” although some people still experience flaking. It’s a bi-phasic (two-phase) medical-grade peel developed in Italy that combines multiple active ingredients like 35% TCA, alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids like lactobionic acid, salicylic acid, tartaric acid, and citric acid, amino acids, GABA, and squalane to resurface and revitalize the skin in a gentler way than traditional peels. It’s usually done in 4-6 treatments every week or every other week for the best results.

• Good for: improving texture and tone, acne-prone skin or skin showing signs of premature aging

CoolPeel by Environ: a type of light, controlled chemical peel (often using low-strength, low pH TCA or lactic acid) designed to exfoliate the skin gently without heat or significant irritation. They also can help with acne, blemishes, reactivity, reducing signs of aging, lightening dark spots, improving texture and tone, while also stimulating fibroblasts for collagen synthesis. CoolPeels target the surface layers while keeping the skin cool and comfortable.

• Good for: All skin types, and they can be layered to increase strength depending on the person

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General Glowi-ness

There’s a little bit of everything in here — some tone evening, some inflammation calming, a little hydration, maybe some circulation. I think “general glowi-ness” sums it up nicely.

Microneedling:

A treatment that uses tiny, sterile needles to create micro-injuries in the skin, triggering the body’s natural healing response and boosting collagen and elastin production. It helps improve texture, minimize acne scars, reduce fine lines, and fade hyperpigmentation with mild (24-48 hour) downtime.

**It’s important to note that microneedling is also used as a delivery method for advanced treatments like PRP, exosomes, or salmon sperm (PDRN) (we’ll get there), which are more oriented towards regeneration / anti-aging. I’ll put an asterisk next to these so you know they’re microneedling-related.

• Good for: Smoothing and brightening skin, evening tone

Liquid Microneedling:

A needle-free treatment that mimics the effects of traditional microneedling using topical ingredients. It’s often delivered through a spicule-based formula (marine sponges / minerals) that create microchannels in the skin, stimulating cell turnover and boosting collagen without actual punctures. The results are similar to that of regular microneedling — brightening, smoothing texture, evening complexion — but with even less downtime.

• Good for: people with sensitive skin or phobia of needles, or people who want the effects of microneedling without downtime

Oxygen Therapy*:

An esthetician uses a specialized device to infuse oxygen combined with vitamins, antioxidants, and botanicals onto the skin. It’s meant to hydrate, brighten, and rejuvenate the skin, and can also boost circulation which has a glowy effect.

• Good for: Dehydrated or dull skin, if you want a quick refresh without anything invasive

Cryotherapy*:

An esthetician uses blasts of cold air or liquid nitrogen to rapidly cool the skin, triggering vasoconstriction (the tightening of blood vessels). As the skin rewarms, blood vessels dilate again, allowing a surge of oxygen and nutrient-rich blood to surface, which gives your face a brightened, toned effect.

• Good for: Combatting dullness, puffiness, or redness

LED Light Therapy:

Usually an add-on at the end of a facial, this is when an esthetician will place an LED light panel over your face for anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes. Wavelengths of low-level light (like red, blue, or near-infrared) penetrate the skin and stimulate different biological processes without any heat or discomfort.

• Red light boosts collagen production, reduces inflammation, and improves skin tone and texture.

• Blue light targets acne-causing bacteria to clear breakouts.

• Near-infrared light helps with deeper tissue repair and reduces fine lines.

Good for: Honestly, anyone. Reducing redness or inflammation, calming acne, smoothing wrinkles, brightening complexion, you name it.

Co2Lift:

A non-invasive carboxytherapy treatment that uses a carbon dioxide-infused gel to deeply hydrate, brighten, and firm the skin. When applied, the gel triggers your body to send a rush of oxygen to the area, boosting circulation and collagen production without needles or downtime.

• Good for: Speeding up healing and maximizing results post-procedure, before events or photos for a plumping and brightening effect

• **This is one of Jolie’s top recommendations for brides because it helps makeup look amazing. You do have to buy it through an authorized retailer, so if you’re interested, feel free to hit up our plug.

Tightening + Toning

The treatments that leave you looking *checks notes* snatched by stimulating muscles, collagen, and lymphatic flow to firm, lift, and define.

Microcurrent:

A non-invasive skincare treatment that uses low-level electrical currents to stimulate the muscles and deeper layers of the skin. The tiny electrical impulses go into the skin and facial muscles, mimicking the body’s own bioelectricity to boost collagen and elastin production, improve circulation, and enhance product absorption without needles or downtime.

• Good for: people who want lifting and toning

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EMS Therapy:

A facial treatment where an esthetician uses a handheld EMS (electrical muscle stimulation) device with low-level electrical currents to stimulate and contract facial muscles. It essentially mimics a workout for your face, which helps tone, lift, and firm the underlying muscle structure while also boosting circulation and collagen production.

• Good for: anyone looking to fight sagging / create definition and tone in your face, it’s often referred to as a “non-invasive face lift”

Lymphatic Drainage Facial (Vodder Method):

A gentle, rhythmic facial pressure (not massage!) technique developed by Dr. Emil Vodder to stimulate the lymphatic system. It involves light, sweeping motions that follow the direction of lymph flow, helping to reduce puffiness from fluid retention, boost circulation, calm inflammation, and remove waste and toxins from the skin.

• Good for: de-puffing (especially post-procedure), facial contouring, and anyone concerned with acne, eczema, rosacea, fatigue, stress, hormonal conditions, and autoimmune imbalance

• Not for: anyone with congestive heart failure, active / acute inflammation, active cancer, thrombosis

Buccal Facial:

A massage-focused treatment that targets the inner and outer muscles of the face, particularly the cheeks (a.k.a. buccal area). This is the facial where an esthetician goes inside your mouth with gloved hands to release tension, promote lymphatic drainage for improved circulation, and sculpt the face from the inside out.

• Good for: easing jaw tension, people who want face lift effects without any tech

• Not for: anyone with active acne, dermatitis, or inflamed / irritated skin

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Plumping

These add a little bit of bounce, some healthy fullness.

Microinfusion:

This involves a device with ultra-fine, hollow needles (often gold-plated) that stamps customized serums — like hyaluronic acid, peptides, vitamins, or even Botox — directly into the superficial layers of the skin.

• Good for: pre-photo or event prep, people who want the results of injectables for a shorter period of time, a “glass skin” effect

Salmon Sperm Facial (PDRN or PN)*:

This facial is when polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), a DNA-derived ingredient extracted from salmon sperm, known for its regenerative and healing properties, is injected or microneedled into the skin. PDRN stimulates tissue repair and regeneration by activating cell receptors that kickstart collagen synthesis, boost microcirculation, and reduce inflammation. The thought is that it will essentially send a message to your skin to heal faster, produce more collagen, and hold onto moisture better since the PDRN from salmon DNA resembles that of human DNA.

• Good for: Intense rejuvenation — plumper, firmer, glowier skin

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Regeneration (Anti-Aging)

This is where things get a little high-tech. These treatments work at a micro level to encourage cellular renewal, collagen production, and repair.

Exosome Therapy*:

An advanced regenerative facial treatment that uses exosomes — tiny extracellular vesicles naturally secreted by stem cells — to deliver powerful growth factors, peptides, and genetic material to skin cells. These trigger the cells to naturally produce more collagen and elastin, reduce inflammation, and support skin repair and regeneration. Exosomes are serious business since they’re stem cell derived, so it’s very important to get this therapy from a trusted source.

• Good for: People looking to speed up their recovery from procedures, glowing, smooth skin with improved elasticity

PRP (Vampire Facial)*:

A treatment in which PRP (platelet-rich plasma) is redistributed into the skin to boost cellular renewal and collagen production. First, a medical professional draws blood and spins it in a centrifuge to isolate the PRP, which is rich in growth factors. Then, microneedling creates tiny channels in the skin, onto which the PRP is applied to encourage rejuvenating effects.

• Good for: Reducing fine lines and signs of aging, increasing skin brightness, firming skin texture

If you made it this far… wow. I hope this document serves you well in all of your future facial endeavors. I’m thinking Jolie and I will do another edition specifically for lasers (hear that, Jolie?) but in the meantime, let us know your questions and check out